I have no idea if it will work until I install it and see. I might be able to desmog my rig in 1-2 years, so I would probably go with a header then. Lot less work and running around, though. Since the manifold is toast already, not much you can do to it will mess it up worse. So I will use the threaded insert. Had the cracked aluminum intake welded.
Step 1 - Prepare the Surface Before the can be applied, the cracked section needs to be scuffed appropriately using sandpaper. I would hunt around for a used manifold first. The solder solution will have a semi-permanent lifespan, but do be aware that it is strongly advised that you replace the manifold with a new or replacement part as soon as you can afford it. Taking it to a repair shop could cost you quite a considerable amount for labor and parts, so trying a repair yourself first can be a good option. A cracked intake manifold will allow the gases in the intake to escape, sometimes quite noisily. As you will see, most manifolds can be repaired successfully when the appropriate tools and techniques are employed. I had it welded for 20 bucks.
I'm looking at other possibilities besides the torque wrench that may have contributed to the problem, and taking actions to remedy these as well. Would you recommend still sticking with 25 nm torque, or something far less? I'd think about a very thin piece of aluminum. When you have , it might be possible to repair it rather than spend money on a new one. There are many threaded inserts available - this one seems to be cheap and easily available. I suppose it happens 'cuz metal has been removed and you've had it apart and moved things around. This way the coolant pressure is trying to push your patch entirely through the crack and not just off of the surface outside of it.
The mixing tips that come with the Loctite cartridge I showed and also 3M Duo-Packs, Lord cartridges, etc are the key. Follow the instructions below and see if they provide you the help you need. And second, it often is impossible to remove steel fittings that have been threaded into them for a while without damaging the relatively soft aluminum. Honestly, if you've got the Dremel and the guts, I'd try the second option first, then do the first suggestion if it doesn't work out. Most people simply replace a damaged manifold without even trying to fix it or after an unsuccessful attempt at repair. There are a number of signs to look for if you suspect that your vehicle has a cracked intake manifold. An automotive shop bead blasted everything.
Note: There was a class action suit against Ford for this issue, which they lost. To prepare the parent metal, we used a die grinder to open the crack, allowing for better penetration. It is important that these mixtures are distributed evenly, otherwise the engine will not work as efficiently. And you may have to take a small dremel like tool to just grind out the holes for the bolts. I'm hoping that I won't have to remove the intake for a while. Aluminum's wonderful for repair and refinishing. If the crack in the manifold is narrow, as opposed to a large enough that you can get a finger inside it, it may be possible to solder it; these repairs can only be undertaken if the crack in the exhaust manifold is not too large.
I just picked up an Edmund's Custom aluminum intake for my 235 Chevy. Had the surfaces machined to ensure straight edge. They are terrible and the best way is to replace it, with a metal one if someone in the aftermarket makes one for your motor. They deliver consistent and idiot-proof results. Why Do Intake Manifolds Fail? For a normal application I'd be really surprised that the flow improvement in the manifold would be noticable.
The plan is to cut a piece of aluminum to fir the opening and weld it in. I was concerned it might restrict exhaust flow, so I trimmed it some more after that. Continue to run the solder into the crack of the exhaust manifold until you have filled it completely. If there is a coolant leak then, in most cases, using K-Seal will help to quickly and permanently stop the leak, saving you a lot of time and money. Spent the day doing our 2 year olds birthday and between her and the new kid not much time to play around with cars anymore.
The intake is off a tuned port engine. I'll still use all the other gaskets though, they look great. Set the oxy-acetylene torch to its lowest level of heat, and place the tip of the silver solder against the crack of the damaged exhaust manifold. I'd like to know what type of aluminum should be used to build the pieces that will be welded in. Yes- I trimmed the plate. It was a bitch getting it stick.