Not a deal breaker, but not ideal either. Direct the harness out through the slot G of the mount. Refer to the service manual. If anyone can track this part down and post it up here, I would be eternally grateful as it would really make this write-up complete. After the splitter, the leads are various lengths. Insulate the wires that aren't required with heatshrink insulation tube.
The wiring harness is what I wasn't so sure about. You can see there is one additional threaded hole in the front of the clamp mount should you want to thread in another ball, I'm thinking maybe for a cup holder? Obviously can't show you the sound coming through the speakers, but here's the proof that everything is working as it should. If positive + cable should contact ground with negative - cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. Install screw snugly but do not fully tighten. You can even connect to a transponder to display air traffic data on your aera.
The design of the cable 'loom' is imho lacking in what to me would be two obvious features. Edit: The factory connector has been found!!! Remove the front top screw just below the headlight F. Tail lamp base Figure 2. If it fails because it is connected to your car battery, it switches to external power supply mode after several secondes. Install one rear screw 1 to hold fender support in place while routing wiring. It most likely has a small black weather cap on it and looks like this. This cable is designed to provide both power and data to the 660 so that you can plug it into ships power.
As for the motherboard, I can tell you that the 590 has two rows of 9 pins each total of 18 pins but I'm thinking the boards might be different sizes due to the differences in the cradles. Garmin also has some information in the manual on page 7 for installing the Zumo 660. Feed turn signal wiring and connector through middle hole in turn signal relocation bracket and under rear of fender support. I love the play by play, well done sir! Tail lamp connector Figure 1. Only the 2 red and black cores screened with foil are required. This product is manufactured by Garmin.
So I mentioned earlier there was a problem with this Weatherpack connector I chose to use. The ground is continuous with the long sleeve portion at the base of the plug, just in case you were curious. I had to give it the chop!! Remove Tail Lamp Lens 4. Mark the location of the wire routing hole using the guide hole 3 in the gasket as a template. The red wire goes to the battery positive terminal 12V and the Black wire to Ground chasis. Remove three rear screws 1 from fender support 2.
It is simply looking for a proper audio source to be hooked up to the connector. It worked well, but ended up presenting its own problems which I'll go into later. Fender Support Screws and Fender Support 3. It was easy to wire, is weatherproof, and works great. Simply attach the aviation mount to the yoke mount using the included mounting hardware. Tighten to 50-60 in-lbs 5.
All the extra wiring on the Garmin harness gets coiled into about a 6 inch loop, zip tied together, and stashed next to the stereo module inside the fairing. Seeing as the Zumo 660 has been around for 5+ years now old in the tech world I figured I'd take a chance on trying out the latest and greatest. Connect the bare wires to a panel mount product to transfer data, such as a flight plans, to your aera; conversely, you can connect to a panel-mounted radio to transfer data from your aera to the radio. Step 3 — finding a path for the cables Now as the cable will not easily pass through the interior of the Vespa a bit of help is needed. Only caveat is that the ground wire for both units must be on the same grounding point. Carefully strip back the black outer insulation taking care not to damage the cores in the cable. There may be additional wiring in my pic that you don't see on your bike due to some added equipment.
Loosen, but do not remove two front screws 3 from fender support. So now how to connect the two? The power leads were a no brainer, but I wanted to tie the audio in as cleanly as possible. If yours aren't color coded like mine were, you can test for continuity between the leads and the 3. Remove seat according to the instructions in the Service Manual. While that may be the only way to get the factory style connector, I really don't think the system is that smart.