Some of it must be learned through experience. A week before installation, bring the wood inside to acclimate. Oh nice I like your table saw idea too! In fact, most painters spend far more time filling and caulking and masking than they do painting! If it isn't tight on the side and top, go back to the saw or pick up a block plane and trim the wood until it is. Another cheaper and easier solution would be to leave the base where it is and just return it to the wall instead of having the blunt cut that now exists. If they have stature, a room becomes regal; when they are skimpy, that same space looks dowdy. The outside corners, I am planning on mitering, but as for the inside ones, how would you join those pieces? You mentioned that a lot of us use drywall screws to shim the base back out, but that this new gizmo allowed adjustment with the base in place. I measure them a little short, especially when they butt against casing.
If there are gaps behind the molding and no stud to nail into, squeeze a bead of construction adhesive on the back of the molding at those spots and nail the molding to the studs, as above. I made a note for that photograph. It worked out great, I have the water tight joints you talked about. It seems like the bottom of the small corners need some grinding to fit. They said it is something you hire separately that its not expected for a trim installer to do this type work. Use primer prior to applying the paint, to ensure that the color will adhere to the surface.
Just glue it and pin it? However, especially in very old homes the floor is too far out for even shoe to cover. How do you mark this on your cut list since now you have two different angles for the scarf and neither is a cope? With it, you create a template of the base you are installing and then use a router to cut the profile into your piece. Ok, I have the Bench Dog tool ordered. Often times you can nail baseboard in to the bottom plate by angle-driving nails near the floor. Fully sculptable, sandable and paintable, and temperature will not affect it, indoors or out. The outside corner blocks were a toss up as to which pc to fasten it to. Tap a 1-inch finish nail into each hole to hold the filler in place.
Read a bent tape measure. You mentioned the correct blade at one of your shows, however I could never find where I wrote that down. I make a judgement call on the looks. I would use three pieces to round the corner. A baseboard or floor molding is used to protect the wall, covering the joint of the wall and the floor. What you will be left with is three trapezoid-shaped pieces that when held together will form the curve.
If I want a 45 degree miter, I cut two 22. The second piece is always cut first with an inside corner miter, then that miter is coped to fit tightly against the first piece. The problem I keep running into is when I put laminate or tile floors down the base trim is a different height from the other floor. Step 3 — Cut a Smaller Piece for the Corner You need a smaller piece to fit between the 2 previously cut baseboards. Tack pieces to the wall with just a few nails, fit everything, then nail it off. Do you have any other tips or suggestions that might help? They are rounded bullnose corners, and the baseboard manufacturer does not make rounded pieces for this type of corner. For outside corners, the short point of the miter is always at the back of the molding, against the wall, and against the miter saw fence—for outside corners, you measure to the short point of the miter and you cut to the short point of the miter.
The techniques used vary from wall to wall. Avoid bending a tape measure by cutting a block of baseboard exactly 10 in. Measure these pieces carefully and expect to spend some extra fiddling time at each corner. Avoid having to bend your tape by placing the butt end on the inside corner. But I have one more question…. More importantly, your cuts will almost all be the same.
Superior tools are usually more durable, they help cut the learning curve considerably; a professional quality, highly precise saw provides a deeper sense of satisfaction and joy. I'm not sure how to install the molding correctly in this scenario. For your corner, you will use a series of small pieces of baseboard to round the corner. I look forward to seeing one on crown moulding! Glue and overlap the miters, then nail through the piece that covers the joint not through the joint itself and into the stud. If so, what angle do I cut the the piece to be coped? I just learned from this thread what blade to use. I need to replace 9 of them. For starters, you will move much faster if you base a room in one direction; moving rotationally from the door around and back to the door.
Not as efficient as trusting your tape, but it gets you there. Use a 5-in-1 tool to lift the molding and align the cope joint before pushing the piece against the wall. Because of that, the joints must be cut precisely to fit the wall. The one before is just right—with the tape measure butted against the casing. Do you have rules of thumb or tips or any other resources you could point me to? Outside corner miters must be cut at precisely the correct angle.
Wood swells and shrinks throughout the year, depending upon seasonal humidity. Opt for water based acrylic caulk, which is easier to shape than silicone caulk. However, the more pieces you use, the smaller those pieces will have to be, and this makes the job more dangerous because you will be holding small pieces of baseboard close to a whirring saw blade. The more pieces you use, the more gradual the curve will be. I mean, how do you end it with a return from the right and left? Where two boards meet on a straight run, make a scarf joint by mitering the ends in opposite directions at a point where there's a stud. The caulk may shrink, so apply additional caulk the following day. Use a stud finder to find solid backing in the wall, and drive a nail at least every 32 in.