The 71 to 76 pencils can be fitted either way round and the horn will function, but the correct way round is with the long hex brass rod pointing at the slip-ring on the back of the wheel and the end with the insulating sleeve facing the horn push. But the new one doesn't grip the fuses anywhere near as tightly as the old - I had to tweak the springs closer together, and the neither does the cover hold the spare fuses as tightly as the old. I don't know the 'technology' of the original clocks i. If your new battery doesn't come with a handle it is a good idea to put strong cord or webbing around the battery before you fit it, and leave it in-situ. The fused type might seem the safest option but the current travels through a very fine spring to get to the fuse which makes the plug get quite warm during charging. But this was not liked and it moved back to the horn centre for all markets for the 1971 model year. The best solution is to disconnect all wires from the old control box as shown in the last diagram above.
Turning them off again it climbed back to 14v. I remember reading some time ago that Mercedes had started using higher voltages to protect against premature battery failure, as the lower the voltage the less capacity the charging system will be able to restore. The big draw-back is that they are 4 to 5 times more expensive than flooded types so are hardly a practical proposition in conventional automotive use. At the lower end 12v is also shows as green, and between 11v and 12v as 'marginal', but for me if it shows that for any length of time I'd be concerned. But the roadster alt is completely different, the 'feet' point outwards instead of inwards, then the upper part of the plug body is wider than the aperture in the rear case so the legs have to be bent outwards and then upwards again to fit round that, before the top part of the clip can go over the top of the plug.
I wouldn't contemplate cutting a hole in Bee's dash for a clock, nor wanted one in a separate bracket, and for years struggled with pushing my sleeve back - often being a coat and a jumper to see my watch. On the face of it the fully insulated are best for anything other than earth connections, but that precludes. However recommended batteries are 290 and 360 cold cranking amps which might be a bit marginal, especially if you need to crank the car out of a dangerous position if the engine has failed, or maybe if someone tries to crank it in gear with the clutch pedal released, both of which will increase the starter current above that for 'normal' cranking. This seems to be simply because some august body has decided every electrical component must have a voltage rating, and presumably because automotive applications don't usually go above 24v they have decided on 32v! A brush is something that typically provides a rubbing contact between a fixed component and a rotating one, e. Then fold the 'spare' bit of tubing over, and fit a couple of lengths of larger diameter tubing over that and an inch or so of the insulation on the wires. The electrical shop, that I deal with, rebuilt the alternator, only to have it fail once again.
The ammeter in our cars needs to be looked at as showing current into + or out of - the battery. This is likely to be a problem so rewiring the cigar lighter to the purple circuit fused, always on as on later models might be the best option. This horn had a paper gasket either side of the diaphragm, you may be able to separate the halves and remove the diaphragm without ripping the gasket as I did, if not it's no big deal to cut new ones out of thin paper. Unlikely to have enabled him to do anything about it at the time, but he would perhaps have been able to stop at a warm pub to ring his recovery organisation, rather than being stranded in the middle of nowhere. This is also why the last connection to be made when using jump-leads should be made remote from the battery. There is a small diagram on the model number tag shown near top of this article. The Workshop Manual quotes the original battery capacity as 51 Ampere-hours at the 10-hour rate or 58 Ampere-hours at the 20-hour rate.
I also have a aftermarket electric radiator fan. They can be forced in, but this distorts the connector and weakens it. Wet 'standard' for collection only is also £69. It's best not to leave this floating around, but rather than cut the spade off I folded it over and again used heat-shrink to insulate it. The link leads me to a '404 Error', but it gives me enough links to find the diagrams for Dynalite stuff.
Will measure it to see exactly how much. The principle of operation is that current flows through the coils and attracts the diaphragm towards it. Whilst there is some pitch change as adjustment is made, the primary difference between high-note and low-note horns is in other aspects of the design. This came out by the right-hand headlight and went to the horn mounted on a flat bracket on the slam panel. If this is also 12v then replace the alternator. Also while in a garage, or even out in the open unless there is free air circulation around the battery i. Bad connections will result in significantly higher volt-drops leaving progressively less voltage to be measured at the screen spade contacts.
Both will charge, but it will take longer than if only one of them is being charged at a time. If you don't see 12v at all then the horn itself is bad. Addendum October, 2011: Okay, I concede. If this should ever become an interference problem I would install a bracket to secure the hose against the inner fender. If you back up to Jim Morton's web page you can see a picture of the 1600 type coil bracket on the engine mount. Next weekend he said go back and he'll check my battery for me and he also suggested I check my engine earth strap, which was fine when I did.
Good luck Herb Herb Adler Simon. Open circuit diodes will cause a reduction in output, either voltage or maximum current, so the battery charging may not be immediately affected. Use a drill the next size up from the head of the rivet and drill the head off - it may be easier to start with a small drill to drill a pilot hole part way through first, then use a nail punch to punch the remainder of the rivet out. They are usually very good so I wouldn't normally question their work. Lucas alternators are practically maintenance-free and can be expected to operate for between 120,000 and 150,000 miles before they need attention or replacement. Even if you have fitted a thermostatic fan I would keep the mechanical fan as the continuous cooling may be beneficial to preventing the alternator overheating. The battery acts as a very powerful smoothing device which prevent the high-voltage pulses reaching other circuits on the car.