We'll see if they can re-create the problem after it sits for a bit in their lot. We also cover the Ford Ranger, Explorer Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineer, Lincoln Aviator, Mazda Navajo, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar. I've checked several things already mentioned, I'll check again with a few more ideas from this thread. I tried having my wife reverse the car with the hood up while I walked alongside the car with my hand on the strut tower. Been worrried about since I just did my outer tie rods and new control arms.
The joint seemed in very good shape. The 1 Ford Explorer enthusiast resource on the Internet since 1996. Sound seems to come from passenger side front. I have replaced the lower control arms on both sides about 8-10k miles ago. My car made noise from 0 to ~13000 miles. Edited May 5, 2012 by c03camson Very similar to what I heard when I had a wheel bearing go out.
I had the clunk sound from the rear end. The grease should lubricate the brakes and help eliminate the noise. Had to run to sears to get a special 11mm socket that would grab the bolt since my 11mm would fit but not really torque it down. Ummm read the post above yours, number 12. It apparently is somewhat common on audi's, and ride height wouldn't really affect the bolt I show listed. Looked around under the car and at the visible parts and nada.
Just took the tech for a test drive and it didn't do it after being warmed up. Some popping noises can be created when driving down a bumpy road or at a particular speed, either when the car is moving, or standing still, depending on the component that is generating the noise. Its not when I shift into reverse but about five feet after Im already moving. Most commonly, this clicking noise can be attributed to the brake pads moving or shifting into the new direction of travel. You won't feel them, but you'll get a clicky clack if it is rotors. The problem occurs 100% of the time when sitting and only when the wheel is turned left.
Not to completely side track the original thread and it's diagnosis, but I also have another clunking noise that sounds like the springs on the coilovers vmaxx aren't even seated properly. ? But of course the noise you guys are hearing could be completely different, hard to tell from here. I'll be sure to mention it again next time. The fender bracket is spot welded to the inner panel and attaches to the front-of-dash with two nuts and studs through the dash panel. Has anyone else ran into this? I'll park the truck, go into work, leave for lunch and it will do it 100% of the time.
They also used the noise detection device. So please, Buy the whole half shaft and just swap it in, it's soooo much less of a headache and much more reassurance knowing both are new and there's no damage to the cv knuckle. I only really get it while stopped, low speed sub 15-20 , or sub ~35 if doing some really aggressive driving like autocross or something. Before I go back again, I was just wondering if anyone on here has had this issue, and if it was fixed, what they did??? Elite Explorer members see practically no ads, can add their own profile photo, upload photo attachments in all forums, and Media Gallery, create more private Conversations, and more. The 'clunk' occurs 80% of the time when turning at full lock in reverse. The shims, attached to the back of the brake pads, need to have lubrication. It is not uncommon for one side to go bad while other is ok.
The three upper bolts to the coil over are tight as can be. When I took it in they didn't have a clue or couldn't find it, I'd like to have a point of reference. The car has 72,xxx miles and I'm sure none of the suspension components have been touched since it left the factory. Any ideas about tests to isolate the origin of the sound? The lead tech said that he has sent Ford a request for a steering column knuckle bushing, and will try that. I have tracked it 3 or 4 times, a few runs each time on dot drag radials, but never hit better than a 1.
I have 90k on my car and my lowers still look good from what I can tell, and I have replaced my uppers with 034's adj to help reduce wear and more control. You sure it isn't the rotors clicking? But yes, lowering can cause other issues or premature wear, but there are safe levels where most of that will never be seen. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks! I'm not sure about this but I think it's all because at the university that I go to there is a limited amount of parking lots and sometimes I have to park on the sidewalk. Also, do not put too much grease in these areas or you risk creating a large, sticky build-up as the grease ages. Apparently there is a bushing in the steering knuckle mounting flange plate that could be bad and causing the popping noise when the steering wheel shaft is in the turned position, putting side load on the bushing.