Relays and Fuses: Fuel Injection Relay Applications. Then remove the switches from the top plate by carefully unlocking the tabs holding them in place and push toward the bottom of the carrier. Since the flaky set are wrapped into the main harness to replace them means replace everything. The fuse and fuse holder are simply overloaded in the basic design. If the problem really is a ground issue, the wire may confirm the diagnosis or, when properly secured, be a permanent solution. It's really not just a hazard switch but a whole multifunction assembly for regulating activity of the turn lights -- L or R from the stalk, as a hazard set, and for alarm-set flashing.
Plug it in, snake it back up and clip it place, reverse your steps and you're done. If any window works properly then fuse 8 and the relay are okay. Yes, it is true that the dielectric grease is non-conductive. Finding bad grounds is not always easy. If I was working on this problem I would try to find a place where I could disconnect the feed wire to those areas first.
In the same sense, lab scopes are particularly useful to find loose ground connections. See if any of those fuses are bad, if all the fuses are good, check the connections behind the radio, i had to pry the connections to make them fit better on the back; if none of this works, then its most likely a bad radio or faulty wiring. Burnt fuse and relay panels and overheated connections are common in used 740 and 940 cars. It's rather an elegant design, especially as all the switches are basically the same, and I'm sure the first person to come up with it was grinning from ear to ear when they walked into the head engineers office. Yes, the wires are long enough. See for information about tools to help diagnose short circuits.
See also the excellent of soldering techniques for more information about how to solder electronic boards. Clip the zip holding the two large gray plugs and remove the one wire from the coil. If the last replacement is in question, replace the belt. The switch is easy to change and is readily available through a good parts supplier. You can usually coerce any crimp-on connectors out by bending the little tab internal to each connector with a small screwdriver. Then the solder can be used as a filleting material.
We replaced the alternator and the oil pressure sending wires rerouting them around the right side of the engine bay. The switch pod and tray are held in place by a plastic retainer. I tried to separate and tape them, but that did not work. You will have narrowed down where the problem is: the circuit just before you pulled the fuse and saw the current drop down. The inner diameter is just right to hold the female connectors yet small enough to make a tight fit around the base of relay pins what found at local hardware stores was too big.
Trying to patch it will only lead you into hours and hours of nightmares both as you attempt to cob it together, and as soon as moisture gets in your cheesy butt connectors and your gauges, idle, starter, etc go wacky!!! Re-insulate the exposed areas with a liquid insulator. The new one has a different connector and you are supposed to crimp new pins on each of the 4 wires Volvo can supply those too. If you need to replace a blown fuse in your 960, make sure you replace it with one that has the same amperage as the blown fuse. There's a little side wall panel on the left side under the dashboard - that's the fuse panel. The relay may or may not be. These traces are copper, but are usually completely covered by solder so have a silvery color. I have replaced the blower motor, relay, and the fan motor switch without solving the problem.
First remove the plastic storage box which also contains the accessory socket above it to facilitate this. Volvo 960 1995 — 1997 — fuse box diagram Year of production: 1995, 1996, 1997 Fuse box Volvo 960 — fuse box — location The fuses are located in three different places in the car: Fuses in the main fuse box A protect the entire electrical supply system. I would think that a conductive paste such as Eastwood's Kopr-Shield would be better. This, in fact, happened to my headlight relay with resulting smoke and intermittent light failures. Prepare the surface areas and solder a bridge between your wires and connectors.
So, I had to buy and install a whole new blower. Label the old harness too because you can always compare wire colors in the connectors that are alike. Any solution short of splicing lasts no more than a few months. If you're not comfortable soldering, find a friend who is. I know I'm missing something simple here. It is fuse 14 on the early 700 series, and fuse 16 on the later 740s and 940s.
Problems with the 740 fuel pump and headlight relays are well documented. Remove the securing the storage box: one of these is angled in. If the circuit your are checking has more than one item connected, for example fuse 21 below, you can isolate the problem if you have 2 spare fuses. The Volvo wiring diagrams show that the 3 doors and hatch are on one circuit. The fuse label is on the back of the ashtray. First, there's the issue of the mechanical connection itself.
I was originally going to bypass fuse 16 with an external fuse holder, but this fuse block was so bad I decided to replace it. These wires are an integral part of the vehicule harness. May be someone has or will developt another approach to it. I cannot address 240 vehicles newer than 87, the friends I help do not own anything newer. Some become hot when running and their internal connections can eventually fail. The rear door switches get their primary power through the rear window lockout switch in the driver door switch pod.