Motorhome 5-wire system to a towed vehicle 5-wire system. If it is the same as yours, I could look more closely on my car and answer any questions you might have. When things start appearing to be real strange, start looking at those ground connections. You have two circuits so you could immobilise two different critical wires on the car it is up to you to choose which wires to immobilise. The 5-wire system, common among imported vehicles, has a left turn wire, right turn wire, tail light wire and a brake wire. It's kind of ugly, but it works. This has resulted in a one piece set up that is easy on and off.
I left about 6 inches of cable on each so when I am not towing, the dingy cable tucks up into the grill. Rob, do you need to run a separate cable from the motorhome to the dinghy? If this connection point is good, then check for an open or broken ground wire. I need to get it wired up in the next week so I can pull it to work to pick up Teri and Dani when they return from their trip to Atlanta. This is the thick red and black wire coming from the back of the barrel. Again, I prefer to use a lighted continuity tester with a needle point prod and a wire lead for ground. It stretches and recoils as needed.
. Yep, I said above that in the end, using the five-wire actuator was the only way. To install a bulb and socket you must first determine if there is room in the existing taillight housing for the extra socket by taking the taillight assembly out of the vehicle and inspecting it. I will be using the chassis battery and not the house batteries for this set-up and the chassis battery area can get a little wet. You can buy cheap diode packs, or expensive high quality ones. Molded diode modules, such as those illustrated from Blue Ox, have two input terminals and one output terminal. All fuse at alarm Good.
So my guide would be pretty useless to them as they would already have the knowledge. Take the Toad back to the car fit and solder the remaining joins. Test each wire in the rear receptacle of the motorhome to determine which wire carries each signal. Systematically go at things and keep narrowing the area where the problem might be - eliminate what is known to be good. A lot of the time, the problem is in the motorhome. Every state and Canadian province requires lighting on the rear of a towed vehicle that is controlled by the towing vehicle. A lot of alarm fitters mount the siren to the rear firewall in the engine bay to me this is not hidden enough an looks unsightly too.
The tow bar worked well A friend replaced the ends that connect to the base plate because the pin holes had been wallowed out by the previous owner. Therefore, a five-wire solenoid really is the only way. Keep these valuable hints in mind when hunting gremlins in your electrical system. Using a quality 6 pin connector and 16 gauge wiring from front to back in the toad combined with good wiring practices will result in ample power to the Toad taillight, brake and signal bulbs. This website neither endorses or discourages the use or purchase of a Tiffin product. The wiring diagram is quite good, the wires are easy to identify either by colour, or a coloured band of heat shrink.
Follow the guide bellow in pics on how to do this. Too often, it's the stuff we assume is good that comes around and bites us. Therefore it is installed before the connector. I've seen some pretty inventive Technicians when it comes to avoiding diode installations. The other input I hope to receive is to determine if I should encase the wire that runs from the motorhome to the toad to protect the wire from road debris and weather. Okay, you get the picture. Follow the wiring code embossed on the plastic connector housing.
Detach the wires from the receptacle and attach them to the 5 wires going into the tail light converter following the drawing in figure 6. If not then add a block of material the correct thickness to the bonnet. To make the pigtail, I simply used the extra wire supplied in the kit. This requires another pin in the receptacle. The left, right and taillights can go through the 9-terminal block and the brake will go through the extra diode.
Some of the bulbs on the towed vehicle have two filaments in them. If it doesn't connect to the vehicle frame, then connect it there. X amount of wire in some cases. If the fuel pump was only immobilised then they could be there for ages turning the engine over be they realise it is immobilised. Check all ground connections and make sure they are clean, mechanical sound connections that are protected from the elements. It is called 3M 33+. Once you have identified which wires you are using mark the wire at the end with a piece of masking tape and write on it what it does.
So use you imagination and mount it somewhere out of sight, ie the scuttle tray, in the chassis leg, behind the battery, under the slam panel etc. At this stage, you conclude there is only one wire left to check and that's probably where the problem lies, the wire supplying the turn signal to the receptacle. All references, suggestions, comments, etc. If the test light fails to come on at one pin, then you probably have an open wire going to the receptacle. Preferably somewhere where you would have to remove the lower dash to get to it and then route the wiring around to the various positions. Next you check the motorhome's turn signal and discover it works correctly.